Brent Dolan

This is a photo of me surfing the west side of Hawaii. I don't know what the name of this place was but all I know was it was a creepy left wave. Lots of dark deep tunnels underneath the water. There was a lot very unusual activity underneath the water as well. I don't know if they where sharks or whatever it was but it must of been the reason why there was no body but my freind Sak and I surfing this spot.

Might be a lesson learned if no one is out and the waves look good there must be a reason why no one is surfing those waves. Oh well as dumbest smart people we are Sak and I went and paddled out. It was getting dark so the photo had to be altered a bit so it didn't look like such a black mess.

I can't lie to you when I sitting in the line up with just Sak and I. I was pretty freaked out but as a good friend I wouldn't let him know what I was looking at moving under neath the water. At the time I took off on this thick juicy left Sak had already took his last wave of the day in and I was out there all alone for a good 7 minutes or so. The swell was rising and daylight had almost deminished.

So seeing the waves where getting bigger and bigger by the minute I figure i would take one of the larger ones of the set and just say the hell with it. I took off on this wave pretty deep. I wasn't sure if I was going to make it to the shoulder of this wave for a second but I felt like i was going at mach 2 speed and made the shoulder with ease. I was going so fast when I was dropping into the wave all I was thinking was to dig the rail of my board and my fins as far as I could when I was making my bottom turn. It all worked out for the best and I made it to the shoulder and the top of the wave. Did a simple cut back to the curl of the wave and then raced again back to the shoulder. I didn't want to do anything stupid and fall and find out what was underneath the water.

I was very lucky to not even fall off my board once at this spot. I tried so hard to surf very careful and it actually turned out more like survival then the fun I usually have surfing.

After this trip I figured I will leave the bigger wave surfing to the more in shape pros that do it for a living. For now I will surf the knee slapping slop we get in NJ with my timebomb zippy fish and have fun.

Photo was taking by Chenzo at http://timebombsurf.com

More on my surfing at another time....

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